Rhus aromatica

Rhus aromatica or Rhus trilobata

The Sumac bush is known in latin, depending on which botanist you ask, as Rhus aromatica (for its fragrant leaves) or Rhus trilobata (for the three-lobed leaves). It is quite fragrant, although the smell seems to be a bit controversial, because it has many common names, including fragrant sumac, skunkbush, and lemonade bush. I just call it sumac, because it is by far the most common member of the genus in this region. It is a common desert plant, and also is found in the mountains, although it prefers to be near streams in either setting.

The main use for sumac, as the common name "lemonade bush" implies, is for making a refreshing drink. The ripe, bright red berries have a sour-tasting coating which dissolves in water to make a drinks flavored similar to lemonade. The berries can be used when they are fresh or when they are older and dry, since the important part is on the surface. One should taste a berry before picking a lot from a bush, because the flavor might have already been washed away by rain.

The drink is made by soaking the berries in cold water for a hour or so. Boiling or hot water should not be used, because it could leach out bitter tannins, which would not taste as good. I enjoy the flavor both straight or with a little sweetening. It is tart and refreshing, and my kids love it, especially the girls.

The dry fruits can also be ground up into a lemony-tasting spice, which is especially popular in middle east cooking. It is the main ingredient in the spice mix called za'atar. The species Rhus coriaria is more common in that part of the world, but the spice can be made with any of the common sumac species. It western culture it could be used whenever you might want a lemon-pepper seasoning.